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1980s Cartier Gold, Silverium, and Diamond Ring

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Cartier, two-tone 18k gold and blackened 8k Silverium dome ring with a gadroon motif, set with a brilliant-cut diamond of 5.9 diameter, circa 0.75 ct, graded in the mounting as I-J color, VVS clarity. , signed, numbered 35AI0**, size 52-12, with original Cartier box

Cartier, two-tone 18k gold and blackened 8k Silverium dome ring with a gadroon motif, set with a brilliant-cut diamond of 5.9 diameter, circa 0.75 ct, graded in the mounting as I-J color, VVS clarity. , signed, numbered 35AI0**, size 52-12, with original Cartier box

Details of the "Silverium" Material

  • Composition: Silverium is a unique black metal alloy, trademarked by Cartier in 1987. The specific "recipe" is a closely guarded secret involving up to 15 different recycled alloys, often mixed with copper to improve hardness.

  • Coloration Process: Unlike other blackened metals that use plating, coating, or oxidation to achieve their color, the blackness of Silverium is integral to the metal itself.

  • Purpose: It was originally created specifically for the company's famous Panthère motif to achieve the sleek, shiny black coat of the panther's body.

  • Inventor: The technique was developed by the French sculptor and jeweler atelier Lucien Vachey. Every authentic piece of black Cartier Silverium is stamped with a lozenge-shaped poinçon featuring the "LV" of Lucien Vachey. 1980s Cartier ring in gold and silver, set with a brilliant-cut diamond.

  • Period and maker: Cartier, circa 1980s.

  • Metals: Yellow gold and sterling silver construction, exhibiting Cartier’s period use of mixed metals for structural contrast and visual depth.

  • Gemstone: Single brilliant-cut diamond (estimate: 0.75 HI VVS, well proportioned for lively brilliance. Exact grading available on request.

  • Design and construction: Bold, architectural profile characteristic of Cartier’s late 20th-century aesthetic. The band presents a layered construction—central gold elements framed by silver shoulders—with precise finishing and crisp edges. The setting is secure, designed to emphasize the diamond’s face-up appearance while maintaining a sleek silhouette.

  • Condition: Good vintage condition with light surface wear consistent with age; no significant repairs observed. Professional cleaning and light polishing recommended if a brighter finish is desired.

  • Measurements and fit: Ring size and exact dimensions available on inquiry; exact weight and metal hallmarks present and can be documented.

  • Collectors’ notes: Representative of Cartier’s 1980s output combining classic gem setting with modernist metalwork. Appeals to collectors of iconic luxury brands and to those seeking a wearable statement piece with investment potential.

  • Provenance and care: Supplied with detailed provenance where available. Store in a soft pouch, avoid harsh chemicals, and service settings periodically.

This piece functions as both wearable jewelry and a documented example of Cartier’s late-century design language—suitable as an heirloom and for exhibition in a curated collection.