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Oscar Heyman Brothers, 1959 — platinum, sapphire and diamond floral brooch
A refined example of mid-century American jewelling, this brooch was made by Oscar Heyman Brothers in 1959. Executed in cool, substantial platinum, the design interprets a stylised blossom: gently curving petals and leafy scrolls form a layered, three‑dimensional composition that reads as both naturalistic and slightly modernist.
Sapphires: a selection of deep cornflower to slightly purplish sapphires are faceted and bead-set across the petals, their saturated color providing a rich contrast to the white metal. The stones vary subtly in size to follow the flow of the design, creating areas of concentrated color and softer gradation.
Diamonds: brilliant-cut diamonds are pavé and bead-set along the edges and central areas to catch light with frequent scintillation. The diamonds accentuate the brooch’s contours and add a crisp, lively sparkle against the velvety blue of the sapphires.
Construction and finish: the piece is robustly built in platinum, with delicate openwork beneath the mount that allows light to pass through the stones and reduces weight without sacrificing strength. The pin and clasp mechanism are engineered for secure wear, consistent with Oscar Heyman’s reputation for jewellery intended to be worn rather than merely displayed.
Dimensions and presence: modestly sized yet sculptural, the brooch sits close to the fabric while retaining a sense of depth. From a distance it reads as an elegant floral motif; close up, the quality of stone selection, precise setting and subtle modelling of form reveal the workshop skill.
Provenance and significance: made at a time when Oscar Heyman Brothers supplied major houses and discerning clients, this brooch reflects the firm’s classical approach to design combined with exacting craftsmanship. It exemplifies mid‑century taste for richly coloured gemstones set in quietly luxurious platinum.
A tactile, wearable object with the patina of age, this brooch functions as both ornament and small sculpture—an heirloom‑quality jewel that rewards close looking and regular wear.
